Hallmark: The Gathering

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It really doesn’t take much these days to make me feel old and out of touch. Last night I arrived in Kansas City, MO for a seminar. After a day spent trying to get into Atlanta and then trying to get out of Atlanta, I arrived late and was forced to seek sustenance at the crappy sports bar in my hotel, where, despite the total lack of ambience, I got a highly serviceable burger and a decent local microbrew for $6.42, which is roughly 20 percent of what The Worst $34 Room-Service Meal in History cost me in Reykjavík. While I was enjoying the Cheapest Hotel Restaurant Meal in History (oh, and I was), the woman sitting next to me at the bar struck up a conversation. (It’s a very friendly town.) Turns out she’s here with her 18-year old son, who is competing with thousands of others in a Magic: The Gathering tournament. First prize is 25 large. I was truly impressed, not the least because I have almost no idea what Magic: The Gathering is. I know it’s some kind of fantasy roleplaying game that requires sitting around late at night doing things with cards. I certainly have nothing against that. I just don’t know what it is. I thought I was pretty up on what the kids these days are doing, what with the fact that I watch MTV and all. Apparently this is yet another phenomenon, much like that thing a few years ago when college kids were running around in sewer drains doing something or other and occasionally dying, of which I was not informed. I can tell you this in an authoritative manner about the afficionados of this pursuit: they are running around my hotel lobby wearing ball caps and backpacks and acting squirrely and engaging me in smart-alecky conversation in a way that shows they do not accord me the proper respect due my age and station. Kids these days. Then again, I am half in the bag and not wearing socks.

I’ve just noticed that the PA in the lobby is playing a Muzak version of “I Can’t Help Falling in Love With You.” This is clearly an attempt to drive the gamer kids to bed. Or me. Either way, it’s working.

As for Kansas City (“The City of Fountains”), you’ve heard the phrase, “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes”? Surely it was coined here. In the space of an hour today we went from clear skies to lowering skies to glowering skies to the hardest downpour I’ve seen in years to clear skies again. At the end of the seminar I had every intention of walking out to find a barbecue restaurant recommended to me by the airport shuttle driver, but after this afternoon’s display, I was afraid to set foot outside. Luckily, downtown KC has one of those modern utopian skywalk systems which allows you to traverse from hotel lobby to sterile, bullshit mall to hotel lobby (the mall is owned by Hallmark, for heaven’s sake) without ever setting foot on the pavement or mixing with the hoi polloi. I had to venture the last half-mile actually out of doors, but soon found myself at the BBQ joint in question. It turned out to be a big, slick yuppie hellhole, with a waiting list. When I went into the men’s room and heard the theme from “Sex and the City”, I quickly turned on my heel and left.

This turned out to be a good thing, because I then went to the other restaurant suggested by the shuttle driver, the Hereford House, the dumpiness of the outside of which cannot begin to hint at the wonders to be found within. There I had what is basically my perfect meal: a martini to start, a tossed salad with blue cheese, a medium-rare steak with herb-garlic butter and mashed potatoes, and a Talisker single malt scotch to finish. The meal reaffirmed my conviction that I really was meant to be an advertising exec in New York. In the ’50s.

11 thoughts on “Hallmark: The Gathering

  1. If not New York in the 50’s, then at least Boston in the 80’s with Norm Peterson at the Hungry Heifer.

    Where would one go in the Triangle for a comparable experience?

  2. Are we off listing restaurant time warps? We went to a fancy ’70s steak place in LA in the early ’90s. Red velvet, shrimp cocktails, eek. I guess I blocked out the name.

  3. Hereford House rules! A friend of mine is a chef there. Tragically the steak is a bit overpriced, but tasty. Out of curiousity which BBQ did you walk out of? Not that there is a decent place on the plaza.

  4. Thank you for getting “hoi polloi” right. Most people seem to think it means the opposite of what it does.

    Also – if you want to see kids (mostly boys) playing “Magic” you just have to go to University Mall any weekend. They seem to be having mini-tournaments every time I go there.

  5. I haven’t been there myself, Phil, but according to Pauly The Crusher Monaco, a similar anachronistic experience can be had at Farm House Restaurant, off of 86 near Allen & Sons BBQ.

    Speaking of BBQ, Kansas, I walked out of Jack Stack. It just didn’t seem to have the atmosphere I was expecting from a KC BBQ joint. The bartender at Hereford House told me it was excellent, though.

  6. But dude, when is that place OPEN? I’m game for a trip there anytime you can figure out that it’ll be serving. Meat!

  7. I just finished watching Robert Thurman and Joseph Campbell on PBS and was thrilled that there was a new plooble entry for dessert!
    Love,
    (the) hoi polloi

  8. So, just to help other’s avoid any misses, here’s the low-down on KC BBQ (in order.)

    Arthur Bryant’s: Best in the World. Played host to nearly every president since JFK, and known for being the place (in the hood) that nearly anyone is willing to travel risking life and/or limb for a plate of ribs that will stay in your mind and your heart forever.

    Gates: A KC favorite. Known for the fast pace and quasi-rude service that makes you stick out like a sore thumb if you didn’t already know what you wanted to order before you got there. You can’t go wrong on ribs or BBQ’d Beef on a bun, but don’t leave without trying the BBQ’d baked beans.

    Jack Stack (Fiorella’s):Absurd portions, and good taste. Overindulgence is the name of the game here…and in KC, in general. My suggestion, don’t get sucked in by the menu descriptions, order the half-order of whatever you choose (I’m 6’4″, 240 lbs.) You’ll enjoy the food much more if you aren’t being transported via life-flight to the nearest hospital for emergency stomach surgery.

    KC Masterpiece: The only joint on this list to start as a sauce and become a restaurant, all of the rest went the other way. Contrary to popular opinion, there is good food to be had here, but it is way over-priced (because it is on the Plaza.) You might as well go eat at Arthur Bryants, and use the rest of the money to buy your life.

    Last, but not least, The Sammich Stop: This is the place to visit if you are in downtown KC, and you want a quick but good BBQ sandwich. Again, I’d trek the extra 10 blocks to go to Bryant’s, but I happen to know that it isn’t really as dangerous as most folks think.

    p.s. All bets are off if it is Sunday (and Fall,) in which case, you must proceed directly to the parking lot at Arrowhead stadium. You will find no better KC BBQ than the food prepared by the people, for the people. Oh, and God Bless the Chiefs!

    DBT- I’ll never write this much on your blog again. Not because I am feeling bad for being rude, but rather, I don’t know this much about anything else.

  9. Roger O. Thornhill looked like he was having the best time.

    I’m with you. Start with the Martini. Finish with the Scotch.

    Of course by going into advertising, there was always the danger of marrying a witch who always got you into whacky situations.

  10. My current favorite KC BBQ place is attached to a gas station and a liquor store. (What else does a guy need?) I would put it up against any of the BBQ joints listed above. The line at lunch time is out the door. I would challenge anyone to find better french fries anywhere in the world.

    The food is cheap. (Probably because ambiance is secondary.)

    I would bet there are many people in KC who have never even eaten there.

    http://www.oklahomajoesbbq.com/

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